Improving your skill at billiards is not as hard as it may seem. While you might be frustrated with your performance while playing with your friends, a little bit of practice on your own can go a long way. The fundamentals of billiards are best practiced with drills–that is, short practice routines to fine-tune your muscle memory and reflexes. The simplest drill is to simply place the cue ball on the table, and practice hitting it at different speeds to reach a particular point. This teaches you control, aiming, and the necessary amount of force to use when striking the ball. The more force you use, the tighter your aim must be. Striking the ball quickly off-target can result in unpredictable motion and poor results. Instead, practice your aim by hitting the ball slowly, and gradually increase the force used until you can control the cue ball predictably. You can continue practicing by adding more balls and trying to re-create difficult shots.
Tips And Tricks For The Novice Billiards Player
June 8th, 2009Selecting The Right Billiards Table For You
June 7th, 2009Traditionally, a billiards table is made of flat, heavy slate, covered with felt, surrounded by rubber bumpers. There are several purchasing considerations to make when selecting a table, so it is important to pay close attention while shopping. First, it is important that you do not purchase an inexpensive table, as cheap tables may not be made of slate and can impact your ability to play. Make sure the table you are considering is made of quarried slate, and try to shoot a few rounds in the store to get a feel for the table’s quality. A second consideration is the cushions, the rubber material surrounding the playing surface that permits balls to bounce without too much loss of energy. The American standard for cushions is the "K-66 profile," which is a standard defined by the Billiards Congress of America. The purpose of this standard is to ensure that rebound is somewhat predictable from table to table. The third, and often overlooked, consideration is the table’s felt. Many tables use cheaper and inferior 19oz felt, which is to be avoided. 21-24oz felt is preferred. Additionally, be aware that many bars use thicker, woolen felt that better withstands heavy usage with a loss of ball speed and accuracy. Be sure to discuss these options with the salesperson before committing to a table.
Essential Equipment for the Beginner Billiards Player
June 6th, 2009Billiards (or, "cue sports") is a general term for countless different games all having their roots in 15th century England. While you aren’t expected to be a historian to be proficient at billiards, it helps if you have the right equipment. For this article, we’ll be discussing pool, or "pocket billiards." This game is typically played with a felt-topped slate table, cues, a set of balls, and some other billiard supplies. The most important piece of equipment to consider for the beginner is your table. It is essential not to purchase an inferior quality table, as an un-level playing surface can make play nearly impossible. Secondly, you’ll want to consider a set of cues. Pool cues are long, wooden sticks roughly a meter and a half long. Some manufacturers sell fancier cues made of fiberglass or carbon fiber, but this is not necessary. Additionally, you’ll need a set of balls and a triangle. A set of standard billiards balls consists of 16 balls: 15 numbered balls, and one cue ball. A triangle is simply a piece of plastic or wood that allows you to set the balls on the table in the initial triangle pattern. Hopefully this brief introduction in the different type of billiard supplies available today is enough to get you started in the exciting world of billiards.
Snooker World Rankings
October 6th, 2008In the game of snooker before the 80’s you would have only one billiards tournament available to you as a professional player that would be the world championship? Even with this the players were always seeded by the amount of wins they had. It worked in a way that the champion from the year before was number one, and number two would be the person who had been runner up.
But after the 1976 championship they decided to try a ranking system, which they would base the seeds for anymore championships on, except the top two seeds who would continue to be picked in the same manner. Points were given in the following way, the champion would get 5 points, while the person who was the runner-up got four, and semi-finalist got three down to the last 16 who would receive one.
With this in mind for the performances of 1974 to 1976 the rankings were as followed. Ray Reardon led with 15 points, followed by Alex Higgins at 9, Eddie Charlton with 8, Fred Davis, Graham Miles, Rex Williams all have 6, Perrie Mans, John Spencer and Dennis Taylor had 5, Gary Owen and John Dunning had 4, Jim Meadowcroft, Cliff Thorburn, Bill Werbeniuk, John Pulman all had 3, and finally David Taylor with 2.
This system was used through the 1982 season. While in the next season another two events were added to the season. Points for these new events were added as before. However in 1984 everything changed two more events were added, with equaled six tournaments.
The billiards scoring system was updated and there were 100 people now on the rankings list, although not all of them played in every tournament. If you were ranked above 65 you played the first round of events and received points from there. If you reached number 32 in ranking you would get a point, two for the last 16 and if you were champion six.
With this system it is possible for a player who doesn’t play consistently can finish in the top 32, while someone who plays more may actually finish out of the top 50. With more people wanting to play the WPBSA finally decided to top of the number of players who were allowed to play at 128.
It’s indeed a complicated ranking system that you must study to understand.